Tag Archives: Phnom Penh

Kompong Chhnang, Cambodia: Bad food, aggressive tuk-tuk drivers, and floating villages.

We booked a bus from Phnom Penh to Kompong Chhnang with Phnom Penh Sorya (15,000r/US$3.75) whose buses leave from Psar Thmei. The bus was supposed to leave at 10:30am but didn’t end up leaving until 12:30pm. While we waited we tried to feel the benefit of the Phnom Penh Sorya bus terminal “cool down zone”.

Cool zone

The "cool down zone" at Phnom Penh Sorya bus station.

When we arrived in Kompong Chhnang, we were mauled by tuk-tuk drivers. We made a deal with one guy to take us to Sokha Guesthouse. He rode in the back and explained that Sokha Guesthouse was now called Sokha Hotel, and that they had raised their prices. If we wanted, he knew a “new hotel” with “reasonable rates”. Sure bud, just take us to Sokha’s. We got there, and the rates were as expected: $8 for a fan room. We paid the tuk-tuk guy his 50 cents and fobbed him off as he tried to sell us a tour in his tuk-tuk. After he left, a moto driver from the bus station approached and told Ryan that he had followed us because he was worried for us. He said the tuk-tuk tout was drunk and rude and had pushed his way in to talk to us, and that we shouldn’t take his tuk-tuk tomorrow. I guess there’s a lot of competition and not enough tourists to go around.

Kompong Chhnang lacks big-time in the way of food. We found two restaurants, one of which we frequented twice (Mittapheap Restaurant), despite not enjoying the first meal we had there, which gives you an idea of the lack of options. The night market is small and there are limited food options there, but barbecue chicken is always a good stand-by.

main square Kompong Chhnang

Park in Kompong Chhnang


The next day we decided not to rent a tuk-tuk for the day to see Ondong Rossey (a village famous for its red clay pottery) or Phnom Santuk (a hill with a temple and nice views). Instead, we took (a different) tuk-tuk to the boat dock ($4 return). Immediately off the tuk-tuk, a guy approached us and said, “$16 for an hour tour of the floating village.” Even our tuk-tuk driver thought that was extortionate. We walked down to the waterfront and offered a woman $8 for an hour tour which she gladly accepted. She didn’t speak English, but it wasn’t needed. She stopped and bought a coffee along the way at her friend’s floating cafe, which was kind of neat.

Narrow wooden boat Kompong Chhnang

Narrow wooden boat we hired for $8/hour.

Kompong Chhnang

Floating village of Phoum Kandal.


 

 

 

 

 

 

While there’s not much do (or eat) in Kompong Chhnang proper, the floating village was amazing and more authentic than those on offer from tour companies in Siem Reap. Definitely worth a detour.
Next up: Battambang!

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Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Mind the Crap

Oh, Phnom Penh. Such a shithole. The butt crack of the world — where the scum settles in the tourist area. So many beggars and ruthless business people selling their everything (including their children). I felt generally unsafe in Phnom Penh. Maybe because of the horror stories I had read. Maybe because on the first night a child, who we wouldn’t buy a bracelet from, followed us through the streets and called us shitheads. I’m not sure. What I am sure of though, is that Phnom Penh is not the most accurate or pleasant introduction to Cambodia.

The market area outside of our hotel.

We stayed at the Angkor International Hotel whose $10/night fan rooms didn’t have windows and had all the charm of a prison cell.

Ryan pours his first beer in Cambodia.

They did, however, have a nice patio, if you don’t mind having a tuk tuk driver stick his head through the bushes to try to sell you a ride every ten minutes or so; or the aroma of day-old market garbage, left out in the blistering sun to fester, wafting around you; or over priced beer. But it was a short walk to the waterfront, yet far enough away that you weren’t smack-bang in the middle of the tourist tumult.

 

We did a nice little walking tour – a difficult feat in the city’s sweltering heat. We saw Wat Phnom ($1) and the Central Market.

Wat Phnom

The Central Market

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also went to the upsetting but un-missable Killing Fields of Choeung Ek ($5) and S-21 Prison ($4) to learn more about the brutality of the Khmer Rouge.

The Killing Fields

S-21 Prison

 

 

 

 

 

 

After 3 nights in Phnom Penh, we headed out of the city to a more relaxed atmosphere: Kompong Chhnang, Cambodia.

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