travel

Don Khong (not Don Khon), Laos

Don Khong, 4000 Islands, Laos — View from Done Khong Restaurant.

The bus ticket across the Cambodian-Lao border was US$15 from Kratie, Cambodia to Don Khong, Laos (part of the 4,000 Islands). It was an easy ride on a VIP Phnom Penh Sorya bus that stopped at the border for a mere 30 minutes while the bus company took care of our visas on arrival for Laos and our exit stamps for Cambodia – a service they offer for $1. So to dispel any rumours (and regardless of what Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia on a Shoestring 2010
says) the visa on arrival to Laos at the Laos-Cambodia land border is available and costs US$40 for a UK passport and US$47 for a Canadian passport.

Sunset over the Mekong — The sun sets over the Mekong in Kratie.

From Kampong Cham we headed to Kratie (4 hrs, $5) on a bouncy, speedy bus that was driven by a man with no fear. We were dropped off right on the Mekong River and were immediately approached by a guy who wanted us to stay at his guesthouse. Not having any better options, we agreed and checked into Silver Dolphin Guesthouse ($12 with AC and TV). It was basic but had everything we needed (although Sara’s spider count reached dangerous levels). One bonus was that there’s a school next door that we could see right into from our window. It was fun to watch the little Cambodian children working away in a classroom. Don’t bother with the guesthouse restaurant though.

Mekong River Kampong Cham Cambodia Cow — A cow poses in front of Kizuna Bridge in Kampong Cham

Young Cambodian girl sleeps on a Capitol Tours bus — Capitol Tours: The civilized way to travel

We had banned Phnom Penh Sorya after the last debacle, so we booked our passage to Kampong Cham from Sihanoukville with Capitol Tours (the civilized way to travel) for $9.75, with a stopover in Phnom Penh. We had a couple of hours to kill between our connecting bus in Phnom Penh (it seems like we can’t stay away), but the Capitol bus station had a restaurant serving relatively good food and, most importantly, cold beer to stave off the sweltering heat of Phnom Penh.

paradise island Cambodia white sand beach — One of Koh Rong's pristine, white sand beaches.

Koh Rong is perfection. Turquoise waters, white sand, beer (cold: thanks to a daily ice delivery from the mainland). With no internet and no electricity (until the generator switches on at dusk till 11PM) there’s not much to do but relax and enjoy the serenity of the island. A far cry from the insanity of the beaches of Sihanoukville, Cambodia. We brought a bottle of rum ($7) from the mainland which helped us save a bit of money given that beers and Cokes are a $1 a can on the island.

Sunset Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville, Cambodia — Watching the sunset with a cold draft beer.

We paid $10 for a bus ticket from Siem Reap to Sihanoukville with Phnom Penh Sorya. We were told it would take nine hours; it took twelve, and included a bus change in Phnom Penh. The bus station in Sihanoukville is a little far from the beaches and guesthouse areas, and the tuk-tuk drivers/taxi drivers are not open to negotiation. We arrived after dark and took a taxi for $8.

We took the Chann Na speed boat from Battambang to Siem Reap. It is referred to by the Lonely Planet as “Cambodia’s most enchanting boat trip.” Unfortunately, I was battling food poisoning and seasickness. I don’t remember much of that boat trip. I do remember being conked out on Gravol perched on a hard-seated, straight-backed bench with nowhere to rest my head. Boats and Sara do not mix. Boats and food poisoning and Sara are even worse. According to Ryan, the scenery was wonderful and although it took 7 hours to get to Siem Reap the worst part was a numb bum.

We tried to avoid the regular backpacker (read: Lonely Planet) guesthouses and found ourselves at Senghout Hotel. It was great! $12 for an air-con room with cable TV. Seng Hout has a surprisingly nice rooftop garden with panoramic views of the city, and a great group of tuk-tuk drivers who charge less than the going rate for day trips. We rented a tuk-tuk for $15, heading out at about 11AM and returning to the guesthouse at 7PM. Our driver was a nice young man who was eager to make us comfortable.

Kompong Chhnang, Cambodia: Bad food, aggressive tuk-tuk drivers, and floating villages.

We booked a bus from Phnom Penh to Kompong Chhnang with Phnom Penh Sorya (15,000r/US$3.75) whose buses leave from Psar Thmei. The bus was supposed to leave at 10:30am but didn’t end up leaving until 12:30pm. While we waited we tried to feel the benefit of the Phnom Penh Sorya bus terminal “cool down zone”.

Cool zone — The "cool down zone" at Phnom Penh Sorya bus station.

Phanom Rung, Thailand: on top of an extinct volcano

It was easy enough to get to Nang Rong, the jumping off point for Phanom Rung Historical Park, and luckily Mike from Bobby’s Apartment figured out that the direct buses there were all booked so we took a bus to Korat and transferred on to Nang Rong.

It was hard to find a place to stay here. We ended up staying at Honey Inn which was, to be polite, a ~~shithole~~ anthole. Ants, so many ants… and mosquitos. A never-ending supply.

Pai, Thailand: a mainstream tourist spot losing its hippie cred

It cost us 70B/$2.30 by local bus to get from Mae Hong Son to Pai and the bus was pretty much empty.

Pai is a crazy little town in northern Thailand. It was once a haven for drug users (might still be). It’s proximity to hot springs, waterfalls, and other natural beauties, makes it a great place for a relaxing visit.

Arriving in Pai, it is clear to see that it is desperately hanging on to its old hippie vibe while also trying to appeal to the mass of western tourists that descend on it everyday. Travellers wander around embodying the “bird shit farang” nickname they deserve. Aside from the gross hippies though, Pai is a nice relaxing town to stay in.

Nong Jong Kham (Lake), Mae Hong Son — Nong Jong Kham Lake, Mae Hong Son

Getting to Mae Hong Son from Soppong was pretty painful. There is a local bus that runs from Chiang Mai through Soppong on to MHS. This bus was supposed to arrive at 11:30am. We waited in the roasting sun in the middle of the Soppong Tuesday market, and when the bus finally arrived at 2pm it was packed. We bailed and took a minibus that left at 2:30pm for 150B/$4.90.

Not many people make it to Soppong, which is a shame because it seems like a “real” Thai town. Soppong is a small town built along the highway. We took a minibus from Chiang Mai for 250B/$8. The price is standard even if we had gone all the way to Mae Hong Son from Chiang Mai… had we known this, we might have taken the bus and saved a few dollars.

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travel

Don Khong (not Don Khon), Laos

Kratie, Cambodia: Mekong River Dolphins

Kampong Cham, Cambodia: The Beginning of our Travels up the Mekong

Koh Rong: Cambodia’s Island Paradise

Sihanoukville, Cambodia: Beach, Please!

Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor Wat

Battambang: A glimpse into Cambodian rural life

Kompong Chhnang, Cambodia: Bad food, aggressive tuk-tuk drivers, and floating villages.

Phanom Rung, Thailand: on top of an extinct volcano

Pai, Thailand: a mainstream tourist spot losing its hippie cred

Mae Hong Son, Thailand: On the Myanmar border

Soppong, Thailand (aka Pangmapha)